The Rev. Dana Prom Smith, S.T.D.,
Ph.D. (3/2/2013)
The
onion is the second most popular vegetable in the entire world right after the
tomato, but the pity is that most gardening courses short-change the onion
while an excessive amount of time is devoted to the more glamorous tomato. The indifference toward onions may be that
they grow under ground and can’t be seen save for the tops. The same can be said for beets, turnips,
carrots, and rutabaga. They, too, are
passed over in favor of lettuce, spinach, kale, and Swiss chard, but more of
them later. Right now, it’s the onion.
For
starters, the onion is hardier than the tomato which will wilt at the slightest
sign of adversity, such as freezes. The
onion needs daylight to thrive, not warmth, and in Flagstaff the first day in the year when
there is enough sunlight (12-13-hours) to grow onions is March 15 or the Ides
of March, the day Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 B.C. Statistically, June 15 is the first day when
it’s safe in Flagstaff
to leave tomatoes unattended outdoors, and even then the gardener has to watch
the weather report like a hawk. By the
time it’s safe to leave a tomato plant outside, the first onions are ready to
pull.
Onions fall into three categories, short
day, intermediate day, and long day. Short
day onions grow well in the southern latitudes and long day in the
northern. Flagstaff is intermediate day. Daylight tells the onions when to start
growing bulbs and when to stop. The best
planting times for Flagstaff
are from the middle of March to the middle of April.
There are two ways to grow onions, from seed or from sets which are
really immature, miniature onion bulbs.
Needless to say, sets are easier than seeds but offer less variety. The sets are best for the slothful. I use sets.
Onions grow best in raised beds. They like a ph level between 6 and 7. In preparing the bed, dig in a good, balanced
fertilizer (10-10-10 or 10-20-10.) About
one month after planting, it’s best to fertilize them on the side of the row
with a high nitrogen fertilizer and repeat this every 3 to 4 weeks during the
growing season.
After fertilizing them, water them. Onions crave water but don’t keep them wet
and soggy. Onions do best in a
well-drained soil. Wet tops will lead to
disease. So during the monsoon keep an
eye out for blight (leaves begin to turn yellowish) and purple blotch
(purple spots on leaves.) In order
to save water, it’s smart to plant the sets in a trench and in an area with
good drainage and air circulation. Our
dry climate is one of the blessings of growing onions.
Sets should be planted about an inch deep
and 5 inches apart. They can be planted
three inches apart if some of them are going to be used for green onions. This way they can be plucked right along as
they grow. An onion plant is mature when
the tops fall over, and then they should be pulled from the soil and be allowed
to dry. When dried, they are best stored
in a cool place where they do not touch one another, such as wrapping each onion
in newspaper or small paper bags.
There are three surefire varieties of sweet
onion that will do well in Flagstaff :
Superstar, Red Candy Apple, and Hybrid Candy.
There are two that are iffy but worth the risk. The Walla
Walla is bred more for long day zones in the north,
but it can’t be beat. Another worth the
risk is the TX 1015 Supersweet which does best in the short days of the south,
but as a relative of the famous Vidalia of Georgia, it, too, is worth it.
Freddy Wong at the Grand Canyon Café grows thousands
of sweet onions at his spread down in Camp Verde ,
but he didn’t tell me where he gets his sets. I get mine from Brown’s Omaha Plant Farm in Texas (www.bopf.com.)
Remember: second is often better.
Dana Prom Smith ©
2013
Dana Prom Smith and Freddi Steele edit GARDENING ETCETERA in the Arizona Daily Sun where this article appeared on March 2, 2013. Smith emails at stpauls@npgcable.com and blogs at http://highcountrygardener.blogspot.com.
No comments:
Post a Comment