The Rev. Dana Prom Smith, S.T.D., Ph.D. (5/21/2013)
Just
as “everything sounds better in French,” so lots of things taste better in
French, especially their snap beans which the French call “haricots verts,” pronounced
“ah ree coh vehr” with the emphasis on “vehr.” The English is “green beans.” They are longer, thinner, and tenderer with a
more complex flavor. Rather than plant
the “same olds” this summer, try a little sophistication, better texture and better
flavor with haricots verts. French cuisine along with the Persian and
Chinese is one of the world’s great cuisines.
First,
there is the matter of cultivation. Some
people prefer the climbing or pole varieties, claiming they have a superior
taste; however, I prefer the bush varieties because I’m slothful and don’t want
to fool around with the paraphernalia climbers require. A toss-up.
As with everything
and everyone else, beans want a good bed.
Rich, friable soils with plenty of compost or other organic matter make
for good beds. Sunny locations are
necessary. Since the purpose of planting
beans is harvesting them, the fertilizer should be stronger in phosphorous
which supports the production of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. The P (phosphorus) in the N-P-K designation
should be a higher. Too much N (nitrogen)
will make for beautiful plants but scant vegetables. Several years ago, I fertilized my tomatoes with a high nitrogen
fertilizer and had lush tomato plants with a few puny tomatoes. One of the hazards of gardening is stupidity.
The
seeds should be planted an inch deep and two inches apart in rows 2 to 3 feet
apart. Sometimes, I plant the seeds in
concentric circles in containers which are about two feet in diameter. The pods are best harvested when young. When lumpy with seeds, they lose taste and
texture.
The
Beurre de Rocquencourt or Butter de Rocquencourt is not exactly a haricots verts because it’s a yellow wax
bean. Well-named, Rocquencourt is one of
the richest agricultural regions in France . An heirloom, originally a migrant from Algiers about 1840, chefs
favor it because of its fine flavor and tenderness. It yields abundantly and early (50-55 days),
and keeps yielding as long as it’s picked.
It’s a beauty on a plate, and its taste matches its beauty. We sometimes forget that we eat with our eyes
and nose as well as our mouth.
The
premier haricot vert from my
experience and limited point of view is the Maxibel. It produces straight dark green, thin beans
about 6 to eight inches long in about 60 days.
They have been described by a chef as “crunchy, clean tasting, slightly
sweet, and not stringy.” The bushes grow
about 22 to 26 inches high. Again, it’s
best to pick the pods when they’re young and immature to avoid the lumpiness
that ruins their magnificence. The seeds
are a mottled purple and can be harvested late in the season for planting the
year following.
The
Maxi bean is similar to the Maxibel, albeit a little shorter in length. Its great advantage is that the pods grow on
top of the bush rather than hidden underneath the leaves, making for easier
picking. The chef mentioned above
suggests that the Maxi pods are best served slightly steamed with butter and
sea salt. As with the lilies of the
field, they need no gilding. Like the
Maxibel, they are best picked when immature without lumps.
Le début de tout.
Copyright © Dana Prom Smith 2013
Dana Prom Smith and Freddi Steele edit
GARDENING ETCETERA for The Arizona
Daily Sun. Smith emails at stpauls@npgcable.com and blogs at http://highcountrygardener.blogspot.com.